Tuesday, March 31, 2020

Return to Jerusalem. The cookbook, that is

I was reminded of this today when my inbox had a recipe from Melissa Name Escapes Me, nyt food writer, with a kind of simplified version of mejadra.

I tried this, the real thing, a couple of years ago when I first heard of Ottolenghi,  at the Bite Club, local library cookbook book group. Led by a great cook also a reference librarian, Dee Whitman.

Ottolenghi is not a simplifier. But the results are wonderful. So I thought hm. All the ingredients, more or less, in the house. Around here to think is to act.



You'll see from the full page of ingredients and instructions that this is not fast food. You pretty much have to adopt the attitude of those old ladies of his childhood, spending all day in the kitchen, waving away hungry kids wanting to know if it's ready, it smells so good.



So here we go. I didn't have Basmati, subbed jasmine brown, didn't have yogurt, ignored it, didn't have allspice, likewise. I did grind the cinnamon stick fresh, -- you did know the cheap cinnamon you get at the supermarket isn't the real thing,  just a poor relation? -- and the black pepper. Didn't have green nor brown lentils, subbed red, added in yellow split peas to make up the amount.

Aside from these adjustments it was exactly the same.. moving right along. It's really a lovely long adventure of the senses with all the ingredients, and grinding the spices, cooking the lentils, then the onions in batches till golden and crisp, then all the other stuff.





Nothing exotic in the ingredients, just the way you use them.

About the cinnamon, I found a source for mine, and the sticks are so much more aromatic and easy to break than supermarket ones. Real southern cooks use them. It's botanically C. Zeylanicum, Ceylon cinnamon. If the world ever gets back on its axis you might fancy trying it.

With Ottolenghi's recipes, you slow down and get into a calm frame of mind. Full disclosure: there was a slight oil burn, but the aloe plant right in the kitchen took care of that.

I saved out the olive oil from cooking the onions, used some of it as a base for the next stage, the toasting of the spices, saved the rest in the fridge for use soon when I fancy onion-flavored oil, probably for soup.



And it's an amazingly good meal, soft along with firm and crunchy, spicy but not blow your head off.  There's enough for several more meals, heat n eat. Future fast food.

If you'd rather do anything than be this involved with a meal, I can still recommend the cookbook, also "Plenty" by the same people.

 It's a book of history, culture, geography, botany, as well as food. The photography alone is worth studying. I rarely buy cookbooks, but this is different.

 It's a middle Eastern education in food. And in herbs and spices, using then generously. None of your eighth of a tsp of this, a smidgen of that. Armloads is more like it. Lentils, rice, chickpeas, can take a lot of flavoring. Boldly go ahead, is the idea.

Not a bad policy in general, come to think of it.

13 comments:

  1. I love spicy food but my husband doesn’t. I always add a bit but never as much as I like. Cinnamon is great in savoury recipes, not just for baking.

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    1. Yes, I use cinnamon in a lot of foods. It goes with other spices, and just seems to lift your spirits.

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  2. Ah, mujeddrah (one of many spellings!). We've been making it too. Wonderful way to spend an afternoon, especially a wet cold one - and then enjoy it from the freezer for weeks.

    Cheers,
    Chris from Boise

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    1. Yes, it's definitely half a day's work. And good to know a few meals are accounted for.

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    2. About the spelling -- I used the one Ottolenghi used, and I've seen three or four. I can sort of say it, though I can't roll the r very well. But accent on the second syllable works for all of them.

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  3. Bite Club, what a fun sounding name for a fun group.
    Cooking with a variety of spices feels refreshing. Time to organize the spice shelves.

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    1. It started shortly after Fight Club was doing the rounds. At this point I don't think new members know the reference. But it's a great name.

      I love grinding spices. All that lovely smell.

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  4. What a joy to peek into the kitchen of a real cook.
    Lovely!

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    1. I'm glad you like it. Not sure where I'd place myself in the spectrum of cooks but thank you anyway.

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  5. Prompted me to sniff some spices. Great recipe.

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    1. I'm glad you did some spicearomatherapy. I do think it boosts your morale.

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  6. Neither Resident Chef or I grew up eating food that contained much in the way of spices - our mothers were both pretty much salt & pepper people and very little beyond that. Now we enjoy tasting different flavours, partially brought about by having a son who is a chef. I still can't handle really spicy food but love all the different flavours. This recipe sounds good!

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